Skip to main content

Air Source Heat Pumps

Air Source Heat Pumps
We have established that Passive Houses are air tight, super insulated and properly ventilated. Air source heat pumps are what we will be using to supplement the cooling and heating needs during the summer and winter months.

An Air Source Heat Pump is both an air conditioner and a heater.

In Cooling Mode

Starting at the compressor:

1) Refrigerant is compressed causing the pressure to increase and turn the cold vapor into hot vapor.
2) The hot vapor enters the outdoor coil and is cooled by the outdoor air. This causes the hot vapor to change phases into a hot liquid (still under a lot of pressure).
3) The hot pressurized refrigerant enters the expansion valve where the  pressure is relieved and the temperature of the refrigerant drops (A LOT)
4) The cold liquid refrigerant enters the indoor coil and is heated up by the indoor air (cooling the indoor air in the process). This causes the cold liquid refrigerant to change phases into a cold vapor.
5) The cold vapor refrigerant enters the compressor again.

In Heating Mode 

Starting at the compressor again - now everything is reversed:

1) Refrigerant is compressed causing the pressure to increase and turn the cold vapor into hot vapor.
2)  The hot vapor enters the indoor coil and is cooled by the indoor air (Heating the Indoor Air). This causes the hot vapor to change phases into a hot liquid (still under a lot of pressure).
3) The hot pressurized refrigerant enters the expansion valve where the  pressure is relieved and the temperature of the refrigerant drops (A LOT)
4) The cold liquid refrigerant enters the outdoor coil and is heated up by the outdoor air (cooling the indoor air in the process). This causes the cold liquid refrigerant to change phases into a cold vapor.
5) The cold vapor refrigerant enters the compressor again.

Some things to keep in mind.


  • Refrigerant pressures range from 0 - 250 psi
  • Refrigerant temperatures range from (-)14 - 150 F
So because of the temperature ranges of the refrigerant are greater than outdoor air temperatures the system should be able to provide heating in the harshest of conditions and cooling on the hottest of days.


The efficiency of these systems are upwards of 300% efficient. This is possible, since we are not creating heat (like in burning fuels with your furnace) we are simply moving the heat around to where we want it to be. The heat pumps are all electric, so for every 1 kWh of energy the machine uses, it moves 3 kWh of heat energy into or out of the house.

Any heating and cooling system needs to be properly sized to ensure maximum efficiency. The heat loss in a typical passive house is too small for any furnace or geothermal heat pump system. The cost to run even the smallest furnace would outweigh the cost of the air source heat pump and greatly decrease the comfort of the home due to short cycling creating a wide swing in air temperatures. An Air Source heat pump is the most economical and efficient way to keep the indoor air temperature pleasant and stable all year long.

Here is a video from Mitsubishi:


The ventilation system, in addition to controlling the humidity of the air, will be circulating the air throughout the house to help keep the air temperature even.

That pretty much does it for Passive House Components. Next week we will be breaking ground, so my posts from now on will be based on how the building process is going.





Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Window Installation

With all of the engineering and design that goes into a house like this, why would window installation be any different? EVERYTHING in a passive house is modeled, examined, and optimized thermodynamically. For now we will be talking about the thermodynamic analysis of the Passive House Windows and how this translates to the positioning of the windows within the wall system. A typical new construction window comes with a nailing flange that is part of the frame of the window. This requires the window to be nailed directly to the wall, resulting in the window being flush with the outer edge of the exterior wall. Passive House windows don't come with the nailing flange, this allows flexibility in location of installation within the wall system. The fact is, in a thick wall (12 inches or more, further details on wall thickness will be addressed in a later post) you typically don't want to install the window on the outside of your wall. You want to install the window in the middle o...

Wall Assembly 1

Double Wall Construction Maybe I am biased to double wall construction because the company I work for Airtight Services  is a cellulose insulation company; but it is still probably the most cost effective way to achieve the R-values necessary for Passive House. Based on our energy model we needed to achieve about an R-54 wall. There were a couple options: 2x6 wall with 6" of polyisocyanurate rigid foam to the outside There are some more difficult window installation details when your window is cantilevered over nothing but foam. Some long screws are need to attached a furring strip over the rigid foam (9" long) and those can add considerable cost to the project - upwards of $0.75 each The labels on rigid foam insulation scared me a little bit too -  15 YEAR LIMITED THERMAL WARRANTY Polyisocyanurate has the WORST embodied energy of the good types of insulation meaning it takes the most amount of energy to make relative to how much it will save This graph was posted on Green Bu...