Skip to main content

Capillary Break

Capillary Break
So we are under construction!

The foundation has been dug, 
The footers have been formed
and poured.

Now we are ready to start laying the ICF blocks... Right

NOT SO FAST!
        If we get too far ahead of ourselves we will miss a fairly important step. The capillary break is installed between the footer and the foundation wall. Concrete has amazing capillary action potential. Remember in science class in 3rd grade when the teacher added food coloring to water and put celery into the glass and we all watched the water travel up the celery. That is capillary action. 

        Why is capillary action bad? When you waterproof the outside of your foundation, water that is wicked into your foundation wall needs a place to go. It can't go out (though the water proofing) It must go in (into your basement). I will be insulating my basement walls beyond the standard ICF's, so I need to keep the insulation dry. 

       How much water can really get into your house this way? Isn't this just more precautions than anything? Well - concrete is VERY GOOD at wicking moisture - so good in fact that if you had a building 6 miles high, water could wick to the top - that's right 6 miles

     What can be used as a capillary break? Really anything that will stop water - water proofing, plastic, foam, etc. There are actual "Capillary Break" materials sold at local lumber yards - HOWEVER, they rarely stock it since no one ever asks for it. 

      This left me in quite an interesting situation. We had a few options

1) Garage Floor sealer - it has a curing time of 20-30 days - Nope
2) 6 mil plastic - there is a lot of rebar coming though the footer that would need a lot of attention to detail with sealing all of the holes (110 holes to be exact)
3) Low Perm Paint - Pretty expensive, and unsure of long term performance
4) Basement exterior water proofing - the chemical's in the water proofing tend to eat foam (ICF's are about 90% foam) when they are not cured - the cure time was 24-48 hours

None of them were great options. but we decided to go with the basement exterior water proofing:


We snapped a few lines to identify the area's the concrete will be in contact with the footer, to minimize the contact between the ICF and Capillary Break. 

It looked a little like this when we were done:

While it is a simple step, and set us back a half day or so, it will go a long way to keeping our basement dry!

ICF installation coming up next!


Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Window Installation

With all of the engineering and design that goes into a house like this, why would window installation be any different? EVERYTHING in a passive house is modeled, examined, and optimized thermodynamically. For now we will be talking about the thermodynamic analysis of the Passive House Windows and how this translates to the positioning of the windows within the wall system. A typical new construction window comes with a nailing flange that is part of the frame of the window. This requires the window to be nailed directly to the wall, resulting in the window being flush with the outer edge of the exterior wall. Passive House windows don't come with the nailing flange, this allows flexibility in location of installation within the wall system. The fact is, in a thick wall (12 inches or more, further details on wall thickness will be addressed in a later post) you typically don't want to install the window on the outside of your wall. You want to install the window in the middle o...

Wall Assembly 1

Double Wall Construction Maybe I am biased to double wall construction because the company I work for Airtight Services  is a cellulose insulation company; but it is still probably the most cost effective way to achieve the R-values necessary for Passive House. Based on our energy model we needed to achieve about an R-54 wall. There were a couple options: 2x6 wall with 6" of polyisocyanurate rigid foam to the outside There are some more difficult window installation details when your window is cantilevered over nothing but foam. Some long screws are need to attached a furring strip over the rigid foam (9" long) and those can add considerable cost to the project - upwards of $0.75 each The labels on rigid foam insulation scared me a little bit too -  15 YEAR LIMITED THERMAL WARRANTY Polyisocyanurate has the WORST embodied energy of the good types of insulation meaning it takes the most amount of energy to make relative to how much it will save This graph was posted on Green Bu...